Wattplate

Watts to Amps Calculator

Amps, watts or volts for DC, single-phase and three-phase circuits.

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Circuit

Motors and electronics draw more current when their power factor is below 1. Nameplate amps win.

Rated output

Caution

Rated current

12.5A

1,500 W at 120 V single phase, power factor 1, draws 12.5 amps.

Load 83% of 15 A
Breaker
Caution83% of 15 A

Over 80% of a 15 A breaker.

Heavy for one 15 A circuit if it runs 3 hours or more.

Watts1,500 W
Volts120 V
Circuitsingle phase AC
Power factor1.00
Kilowatts1.5 kW
Kilovolt-amps1.5 kVA

Working

  1. Amps = watts ÷ (volts × power factor) = 1,500 W ÷ (120 V × 1) = 12.5 A

Model PL-01

Typical figures from physics; nameplate amps win. Amber over 80% of the breaker: a load that runs 3 hours or more is usually counted at 125% (NEC 210.19(A)(1), 210.20(A)). Check your code edition and your local inspector (AHJ).

Quick answer

A 1,500 W load on a 120 V single-phase circuit with a power factor of 1 draws 12.5 amps.

Rule of thumbAmps = watts ÷ (volts × power factor). A 1,000 W heater draws 8.33 A at 120 V; a fully loaded motor (PF 0.85) of the same watts draws 9.8 A.

NoteTypical figures from physics. Check the nameplate, your code edition and your local inspector (AHJ). This is an estimate from physics and maker data, not engineering or code advice. Hire a licensed electrician for the work.

Watts to amps at 120 V and 240 V, power factor 1
Load120 V240 V
750 W6.25 A3.13 A
1,500 W12.5 A6.25 A
1,800 W15 A7.5 A
2,400 W20 A10 A
3,600 W30 A15 A
4,800 W40 A20 A
7,200 W60 A30 A
9,600 W80 A40 A

How to convert watts to amps

Watts measure the power a load uses. Amps measure the current that flows to deliver it, and volts are the push behind that current. On a direct current (DC) circuit, such as a 12 V battery system, one plain rule links the three: watts = volts × amps. Turn it around and amps = watts ÷ volts.

Alternating current (AC) adds one more number, the power factor. A heater turns all the current it draws into heat, so its power factor is 1 and the DC rule works as it is. A motor also draws current that builds its magnetic field and then flows back each cycle. That current does no work, but the wires still carry it, so the motor draws more amps than its watts alone suggest. The power factor is the share of the current that does real work, from 0 to 1.

  • DC: amps = watts ÷ volts
  • Single phase AC: amps = watts ÷ (volts × power factor)
  • Three phase AC: amps = watts ÷ (1.732 × volts × power factor), with the voltage measured line to line

The calculator runs these formulas in three directions: watts to amps, amps to watts, and watts and amps to volts. It prints each formula with your numbers in it, so you can check the working by hand or copy it into your notes.

Which power factor to use

If you don’t know the power factor, start from the type of load:

  • Heaters, oven elements, kettles and incandescent lamps: 1. They are purely resistive.
  • Induction motors at full load (fans, pumps, compressors): about 0.85. Published figures run from 0.84 for small motors to 0.91 for large ones.
  • Lightly loaded motors: lower, about 0.7 at half load. A motor that idles most of the time draws more current for each watt than its full-load figure suggests.
  • LED drivers and electronics: these vary from product to product. Use the power factor or the amps printed on the label.

The best number is on the nameplate. If the label gives amps, use those: they come from testing the actual product, and no formula beats that.

Three phase: where 1.732 comes from

A three-phase supply has three live wires whose voltages peak a third of a cycle apart. The voltage between two of those wires, line to line, is √3 (about 1.732) times the voltage from one wire to neutral. That is why a 208Y/120 V system reads 120 V from a line to neutral and 208 V between lines, and a 480Y/277 V system reads 277 V and 480 V.

The three-phase formula uses the line-to-line voltage. For a balanced load you can also start from the line-to-neutral voltage, amps = watts ÷ (3 × volts × power factor), and get the same answer. Either way, the result is the current in each line, not the total of all three.

This is also why the calculator offers only 208, 240 and 480 V under three phase. 120 V and 277 V are line-to-neutral figures, and putting them in the line-to-line formula gives the wrong amps. Pick Other to type a different line-to-line voltage.

Watts, volt-amps and kilowatts

Volt-amps (VA) are volts times amps, times 1.732 for three phase. They measure the apparent power the wiring has to carry. Watts are the real power the load turns into heat, light or motion. The power factor links the two: kW = kVA × power factor.

At a power factor of 1 the two are equal. Below 1, the calculator shows the apparent power in kVA next to the answer, because generators, transformers and UPS units are rated in kVA as well as kW. A generator that looks big enough in watts can still be too small in kVA for a motor load.

What the answer is for

The amps here are the current the load draws. They are the first number you need when you pick a wire, a breaker or a generator, but they are not the whole answer.

A load that runs 3 hours or more is a continuous load. It is usually counted at 125% when choosing the wire and breaker (NEC 210.19(A)(1) and 210.20(A)). Seen from the other side, a continuous load should stay at or under 80% of the circuit: 12 A on a 15 A circuit, 16 A on a 20 A circuit. The calculator points out a single-phase 120 V result above those figures. Wire size also depends on the length of the run, the insulation and the terminals, and the rules change with the code edition. Your local inspector, the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ), has the final say.

Common mistakes

  • Leaving out the power factor for a motor. Watts ÷ volts understates a motor’s current. Divide by the power factor too, or use the nameplate amps.
  • Putting line-to-neutral volts in the three-phase formula. 277 V in place of 480 V makes the amps look 1.732 times too high.
  • Adding up three-phase amps. The answer is already the current per line. Don’t multiply it by three.
  • Reading kW as kVA. A motor rated 10 kW at a power factor below 1 needs more than 10 kVA of supply.

Worked example

  1. Inputs: 1,500 W resistive load, single phase AC at 120 V, power factor 1.
  2. Amps = watts ÷ (volts × power factor) = 1,500 W ÷ (120 V × 1) = 12.5 A

Questions people ask

How do I convert watts to amps?

Divide the watts by the volts. For AC, divide by the power factor as well: amps = watts ÷ (volts × power factor). Heaters, oven elements and incandescent lamps have a power factor of 1, so for them amps = watts ÷ volts. For three phase, also divide by 1.732 and use the line-to-line voltage.

What power factor should I use?

1 for heaters, oven elements and incandescent lamps, and about 0.85 for an induction motor running at full load. A lightly loaded motor runs lower, about 0.7 at half load. LED drivers and electronics vary; use the power factor or amps printed on the label.

How do I convert three-phase watts to amps?

Amps = watts ÷ (1.732 × line-to-line volts × power factor). Use the voltage between two lines, such as 208, 240 or 480 V, never the 120 V or 277 V you measure from a line to neutral. The answer is the current in each of the three lines, not their total.

What is the difference between watts, VA and kW?

VA (volt-amps) is volts times amps: the apparent power the wires carry. Watts are the real power the load uses, and kW is watts ÷ 1,000. The power factor links them: kW = kVA × power factor, so below a power factor of 1 the kVA is the larger number.

Does this tell me what breaker or wire I need?

No. It gives the current the load draws, which is where sizing starts. A load that runs 3 hours or more is usually counted at 125% when choosing the wire and breaker (NEC 210.19(A)(1), 210.20(A)), and the wire also depends on the length of the run, the insulation and the terminals. Check your code edition and your local inspector (AHJ), and hire a licensed electrician for the work.

Related guides

Sources

Data last verified: Page updated

Written and checked by Ali, who is not a licensed electrician.

Before you wire anything

These calculators give estimates worked out from physics and published maker data. They are not engineering, design or code advice, and they do not replace an inspection.

Electrical codes differ by edition and by town. Your local inspector, the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ), has the final say on wire size, conduit, boxes and breakers.

Mains wiring can kill and can start fires. Unless you are trained for it, hire a licensed electrician, and get a permit where your town requires one.